Everyone talks about Amalfi, Cinque Terre, and Positano but my favorite coastal towns in Italy are the quiet little gems where parking is still easy, coffee is still €1, and a respectful balance exists between locals going about their daily lives and travelers quietly taking it all in.

We wanted to break up our drive from Salento to Sicily, and since we were catching the ferry in Reggio, we decided to check out Scilla, a romantic seaside village attached to a famous ancient myth.

In Greek mythology, Scylla is a beautiful nymph who gets turned into a legendary ferocious sea monster who dwells in the straight of Messina between Calabria & Sicily. Odysseus is told by Circe to sail closer to Scylla, because on the other side of the straight is Charybdis, another sea monster who could drown his entire ship

“Hug Scylla’s crag – sail on past her – top
speed. Better by far to lose six men & keep your ship than lose your entire crew.”

— The Odyssey

The town of Scilla is named after this myth, as Odysseus & his men sailed between this straight, and this rock (top right of this photo) is said to be her home.

The end of March was moody and quiet and it was a perfect time of year to walk around Scilla’s quiet streets, sit outside for lunch, and nestle into a bar for an afternoon coffee.

In the midst of packing, paperwork and preparing to leave for Italy, I can’t stop thinking about Oaxaca. This small magical city has served as inspiration, and a familiar escape over the last 6 years and I’m going to miss it.

2014 marked my first trip to this little enchanting mountain town. I was at the tail end of a breakup with no real plans and some recommendations scribbled on a piece of paper, carrying the weight of everyone’s worry: but is it SAFE? Are you bringing MACE? Be CAREFUL. It was my first trip to Mexico and Oaxaca busted all the classic stereotypes wide open. I remember sitting in front of Santo Domingo with a cup of Tejate watching families strolling around in the evening air, faint music reverberating through the streets from a nearby band, happy tourists with their bags from the market, the mingling of young people after school and how content and satisfying it felt.

A few nights later I was being twirled around in a small bar to some bachata by an old man in slacks who smelled like aftershave. He encouragingly took me by the hand because I was the only girl not dancing and his wife helped me learn the steps and put a flower in my hair. Couples of all ages danced and young kids ran around and everything was electric and felt as it should be – people brought together, enjoying good food, a drink and a good time. 

I’ve recharged in Oaxaca, fallen in love there, have been taken care of, fed, educated, have had lonely evenings exploring the city on my own, and long collectivo rides crammed next to strangers as the sweat drips from the back our thighs and mixes on the pleather seats, our hair tangling together in the wind on the way to one of the big markets in a neighbouring village, the morning heat already unbearable. Oaxaca helped me discover how much I love Mexico and how lucky we are to be able to go to a country with such rich history and culture. Oaxaca inspired trips to other places where I may not have ever visited. It was my gateway into a complex, rich, difficult and often misunderstood place.

If you’re planning a trip, I highly recommend it. If you google “things to do in Oaxaca” there are hundreds of blogs/travel guides that cover all the main stuff better and in more depth than I possibly could. Oaxaca is small, and they all pretty much say the same things about the same places. You really can’t go wrong, just do what resonates with you. The only things I will add are: Explore the markets, eat the food you’re unfamiliar with, if you don't speak Spanish, don't be shy, just try, at the very least, smile. Eat where you see locals eating. Go out and sit in the parks in the evening. Say hi to people. The Zocolo is overrated - don’t spend all your time there. Learn a recipe or two, support the local artisans, and soak it all in. 

Here are some of my favorites:

Café El Volador

Traditional coffee, iced coffee, homemade kombucha in a huge open courtyard

Mercado Sanchez Pascuas

There are two larger “main” markets near the zocolo. This one is smaller and more tucked away. There are women who sell herbs, plants and flowers out front. Make sure to hit the food stalls in the back.

El Pochote organic market

This is my favorite place to start the day with breakfast (try the chilaquiles) and get homemade yogurt, cheese and fresh eggs to take home.

Pan con Madre

Charming little bakery with traditional breads as well as baguettes, and other high quality baked goods. There is also a great stand-up lunch spot a couple doors down - you’ll see it.

Que Pasa Oaxaca

Check out this site to find out what’s going on around town: art, galleries, film, museum shows, live music, etc.